Day 10/28 (Oct 29, 2009): Finally woken up by crows again at 5am. Breakfast was a bit of a bummer though since our bread got soak in the cooler. The ice bags don't last that long when it is
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this hot all day and hardly cools down at night. We used the early morning to explore the park a bit. First we headed to a lookout over Crossing Pool - part of the
Fortescue River system. Most of the area is flat and dry except for close to the river. All sudden you see large eucalyptus trees as well as palm trees.
The Millstream palm is actually native to this area. Great to see a bit more green after mostly red, yellow & brown. We hiked for a bit through eucalyptus forest, dry grasslands and areas full of palm trees - all in a couple kilometer radius. We visited the old date palm tree plantation (none native palm trees) near the Millstream
Chichester Homestead with a nice little pond in the back yard and "wild" cows hidden in the long grass that scared the hell out of me - or I out of them. As the morning went on and the
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temperature rose we drove over to Crossing Pool for a quick dip in the water - that was nice. In theory we would be able to do a loop through the park taking in most of it's attractions in that little area but guess what - the road was blocked off due to maintenance. This area floods regularly in the spring and most of the roads will be covered by a couple meters of water, leaving behind some washed out road once it dries up. Once more we had to back track for a few tens of kilometers before hitting the hwy again which was still unpaved but in good conditions most of
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the way to Tom Price - another 350km or so away. Scenery on the drive was spectacular again: grass lands, red dirt, low mountains, puffy white clouds in the blue sky, endless roads. We stopped in Tom price for lunch and to stock up on food and other items we figured we need for our "real" 4x4 adventure still to come in a few days time. Clouds had been moving in constantly and it was pretty much overcast by now but stinking hot nonetheless. Tim Price is another mining town but has a bit more to over than
Pannawonica. It actually had a pool and a large shopping centre as well as a library.
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Oh and every tree was covered in
Corellas - a kind of cockatoo. We continued on into
Karijini National Park - the drive in through a scenic Valley with low mountains on either side. We were going to spend the first night near Dale Gorge one of the two national park campsite. This site was quite a bit busier than others we stayed at but we found a good spot - probably lucky that we were setting up camp earlier than usual. Since we still had an hour daylight left we scooted over
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to Circular Pool to cool us down for the night - if possible. And what a sight that is. The pool is nestle at the bottom of a 50-75m deep gorge and is almost round. There is a 500m hike into it where you climb down the cliffs and follow the gorge to the end. A couple people were around, two of them a couple from Holland we talked to, but that didn't take away from us enjoying our swim. A beautiful spot with water trickling down the walls and ferns growing all over - and that in the middle of the semi-dessert. The sun was setting fast and we had to almost run back up since we didn't bring any flash lights.
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Needless to say, dinner was in the dark again. And although it was nearly dark, the flies were most annoying while cooking - fortunately they did disappear just before we were ready to eat (not sure about the fly count in the pot though - well it's all protein)!!! A few small bats were flying above our heads - maybe they scared the flies away.
Day 11/29: This morning we decided to have breakfast in the tent to avoid the flies and it
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worked great. We started the hike at
Fortescue Falls walking down Dale Gorge to Circular Pool once more. Although we were at the falls before 6am someone already beat us to it - but the couple didn't stick around. We had our first swim below the falls to cool us down before the hike - the night had been really hot. Walking through the canyon was relatively cool along water holes, through eucalyptus trees and head high grass. The canyon walls were glowing in all shades of red to brown in the early morning sun in nice contrast to the yellow grass or green bushes. Sometime you had to climb a bit along the canyon wall finding handhold in nooks and crannies. We thought nothing of it until we saw an Australian Red Back Spider sitting in its net covering one of those "convenient" hand holds. Afterwards we were a bit more careful about were to put our hands - the red back spider is the second most poisonous spider in Australia! We did see other spiders as well - bigger ones - but had no idea if they are poisonous or not. Given that we were in Australia, the assumption they would be isn't too far fetched I'd say. Other creatures hiding in those gorges are lizards of all sizes from 5cm to 2m long. Finally reaching Circular Pool again we had it all to ourselves. Still no sun down here to take good pictures! For the walk back to the truck we decided to follow along the canyon rim rather than retracing our steps down below in the gorge. Gosh, it was hot! Nevertheless we saw a very picture friendly lizard on the
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trail. He was posing for up to 3 photographers taking tons of pictures. I am sure he wanted to become a movie star the way he was posing on the rocks for us. As mentioned,
Karijini NP isn't a secret in Western Australia and you have to be prepared to run into quite a few campers/hikers. Next we drove onwards to
Kalamina Gorge.
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Similar to Dales Gorge but also different - the cliffs seemed to be closer together and straight up in beautiful layers of red rock. Lots of pools along the way to bathe in. The waterfall at the start of the gorge didn't have much water in it though - guess up here, north of the Tropic of Capricorn, it was the end of the dry season. Around noon we moved our camp over to the west side of the park into
Weano Gorge. The campsite there was now private - twice as expensive for a similar spot but also fresh water and cold beer at the office. For them it was the end of the season and everything would be shutting down for the wet season to come in a week. The camping will stay open but no amenities whatsoever and the nearby wilderness lodge will be closed. Since we had our camp spot secured early we headed over to
Oxer Lookout - one of the main attractions in the park. Here you have a view into an area where 5 gorges meet - all of them over 100m deep into the rock, so deep that no sunlight gets down to the bottom. Very cool!!! There were a couple of options for hikers to get into some of the gorges - to explore them in their entire length you need to be a proper trained climber and have abseiling experience. Jeff and I tackled Hancock Gorge first. It started out like any of the others we had seen so far but then narrowed dramatically until you can touch both walls with your hands at the same time.
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Actually the only way to get through was to walk like a spider since water was running along the bottom making it very slippery - hence it's called the spider walk. It opened up a bit into a small pool - Kermit Pool - where we stopped for a quick dip. Another couple was already enjoying the place. The walls were dwarfing us being close together and running ~80m straight up. No sunlight down here which made it nice and "cool" in comparison to the scorching temperatures up top. The gorge continued on but it turned into a class 6 hike where you needed proper equipment to get down a 2-3m drop to the next pool. Well, I guess down would not have been as much of a problem than coming back up. We enjoyed the scrambling through these very narrow canyons so much that we decided to do
Weano Gorge as well with Handrail Pool as our destination before it also turned into a class 6. We went back the way we came, cross the parking lot and descended down into our last gorge for the day - just noticing the big tour bus in the lot wondering where all those people would be. This gorge also narrowed quite quickly. We saw about 20 pairs of shoes at the beginning of the narrow section which almost made us turned around on the spot - the tour bus!! Nevertheless we continued and after scrambling on came to a narrow gap which all sudden opens up into a large open cavern or pit of ~10-15m in diameter with straight walls going up for 60-70m and most of it filled with water - Handrail Pool. To
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get down to the water you had to use a handrail and rope - hence the name. There was a small ledge in one of the corners on which, I kid you not, 20 sour looking tourist were watching a family of 5 splashing around in the pool. I am not sure why they all looked so grim because the place was spectacular - maybe because they weren't told to bring a bathing suite? It didn't concern us a bit and Jeff and I jumped into the water - what a treat again in that heat - and bonded right away with the family of 5 already in the water. On the opposite side the gorge actually continued on and although it was supposed to be the start of the class 6 I had to see how far one could go. So did the 3 kids and their mom - the guys, Jeff and Dad stayed behind. It was eerie since it was almost completely dark with the walls being even narrower on the top than the bottom. The bottom was filled with water up to your neck or deeper so that one had to wade and swim at times. Then the bottom rose up again and reduce the water flow to a small rivulet before dropping about 5m straight down into the next pool. Needless to say that was the end of the line for us. When we got back to handrail pool only 10 min later the grumpy group of tourists was gone. Jeff and I spent some time talking to the family while warming up on the rocks - the water was actually cold. Those guys were from Kangaroo Island in South Australia. He was a doctor and after spending years and years of hard work and lots of overtime he got the chance to take some time off. So they decided to travel around their own country for almost one year, taking their 3 boys out of school. When we met them they were 8 month into their trip, traveling in a truck just like ours towing a small trailer full off equipment. The stories they had to tell were phenomenal: following old trekking trails through some of the most remote areas in central Queensland; breaking the axle on their truck in the middle of nowhere; helping a farmer driving his cows across the country; staying on remote homesteads in the Kimberley region, etc. Wow, I am not sure if I would be up for all the abuse and hardship they went through and they had 3 kids between 10 and 15. They home-schooled them 3 times a week but honestly just the experiences they gather by traveling around like this will be priceless education. Eventually we had to leave to explore more of the upper gorge on the way back. We saw some pretty, greenish
lorikeets as well as a large iguana. And the setting sun set the red canyon walls on fire once more. Beautiful!!! We made it back to camp in time to enjoy dinner with sunset. Although it had clouded over a bit it was still hot. I woke up in the middle of the night hearing a group of dingos howling what sounded like right next to our tent.
Karijini NP is known for it's healthy dingo population. Apparently the family from SA saw one coming right up to them in their camp. We never got to see them only hear them at night which was scary enough.
Day 12/30: Today we got ready to leave the park but not until we visited a couple more of the
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sights. First stop was Knox Gorge - hiking along the canyon floor until we hit the class 6 sign again after which it continues on into Red Gorge as all the others we visited the day before. I was very tempted to try to go on but Jeff wanted to get back. He had by now enough of Gorges and I am sure so do you as the reader. The nice thing about Knox Gorge though, it seemed to be a less popular destination and the trail was more like a trail and not a tourist highway with ladders and steps. Here you get loose rock and muddy trails. We skipped our last hike but had a quick look at
Joffre Falls from the top - again no falling water here either although the pools on the bottom looked fine. The flies seemed to be a bit worse today too - time to move on. After we got back to the main highway we made one more stop on the south side of i to have a look at the Mt Bruce (2
nd highest mountain in WA) and
Marandoo Mine. This area is know for it's high iron content in the rock. Although all of The
Pilbara is red rock because of iron minerals in it, most of it does not contain enough to make mining worthwhile. But there are a few areas that do - and therefore open pit mines are not uncommon. Since
Marandoo Mine is in a National Park they apparently save the top soil and try to recover the area once the iron ore is depleted. The lookout didn't really get you close to the mine and it didn't look too bad from afar. The same lookout also gave
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you a great view over the northern part of the park - the part we just left - with the high plateau rising from the flood plains. I could have stayed here forever!!! Nevertheless we had to move on - tomorrow was supposed to be the start of our REAL outback adventure although everything we
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saw so far already felt pretty real. We hit the highway again driving for hours and hours going east a bit and than south again. Stopped in Newman - another mining town but also the largest city in the area - for lunch and stocking up on supplies for our 2-3 days in nowhere land. So this next adventure was again something I found on
ExplorerOZ -
Carnarvon Range & part of the Canning Stock Route. A really remote place - 300km of rough track through the Australian Outback -where you have to be completely self sufficient: bring all your fuel, water and food (which we had), be able to navigate by map and GPS (which we had), have at least 2 spare tires (of which we had one and a repair kit), be able to fix anything that goes wrong with your car (of which we had nothing), ALWAYS travel in groups (we were alone), etc. Bad weather can turn the tracks into big mud holes and make them impassible for days. The only way to get help would be via satellite phone (which we didn't have) or wait for weeks or month for a framer or other adventurer to come along (we only had supplies for a week max). Some of the route is on private land and we still needed to get permission - so we stopped in at
Kumarina Roadhouse, the only gas station/pub/restaurant along the highway for hundreds of kilometers. Those guys were really friendly but looked at us funny when we told them about our plan: "Why the hell would you want to go there?". I think Jeff was wondering the same thing the whole time but for me this was the ultimate challenge AND I was scared of it. Nevertheless we found out about the owner of the land we were supposed to cross and told how to get there and what to do. Filling up on water and diesel one last time we continued on. To the east of the highway - the way we would be going - we saw huge storm clouds build up. No rain yet. The drive to the homestead we had to go to took longer than expected and we didn't want o walk in on them in the middle of the night. My resolve started to crumbled. My homemade travel guide had another 10 days of sight seeing listed mostly in the southwest of WA and we didn't have any day to spare to get stuck. So finally I gave into my fears or Jeff said common sense and we decided to skip this part of the trip. It was hard for me since I had done so much research on it and the likelyhood of something going seriously wrong was small - but I guess in the Australian Outback even a small risk is a high risk. And really, we haven't done that much 4x4 driving in Canada - logging roads in the temperate rainforest are not the same challenge as semi-dessert tracks in Western Australia. I still want to do it one day though - but I would bring a satellite phone along!!! So instead of turning of east
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into the unknown we continued on along the highway until we found one of those roadside rest stops where we could pull off a little deeper into the bush. We set up camp hidden from the road - you could still hear the truck driving by every so often but it was a nice enough spot. After we crawled into the tent we heard a semi-truck pull into the rest area. And this id... had his compressor running all night long with few interuptions. Not a very restfull night under the full moon in the outback of Western Australia - not what I had hoped for at least.